I finished my new Tempest just in time for MDSW! Scroll all the way past the pictures for my mods because I basically rewrote the whole pattern to a set-in sleeve, seamless cardi. I am still calling it a Tempest because I used the same stripes and the stitch counts from the original pattern. I hope to find some sock yarn to do my next one in because there WILL be a next one!
- Source: Knitty, Spring 2008
- Size: H – 45″ Bust
- Yarn: Fleece Artist Blue Face Leicester 2/8
- Color: MC = Stone (513.7 yards), CC = Silver (459.1 yards)
- Needles: US 6 needle for the body; US 5 needle for the edging; US 10 needle to bind off (regular bind-off but YO every 2 sts on front edges and every 3 or 4 sts on neck edges).
- Gauge: 5 sts and 7-8 rows per inch
- Cost: yarn – $28.84 [11 buttons ($1.08 ea) – $11.88 = $40.72; I haven’t decided on adding the buttons. I kind of like it with the pin instead!]
- Started: March 2, 2009
- Finished: April 25, 2009
- Mods: I knit this sweater as a seamless set-in sleeve cardigan a la E. Zimmermann, following instructions in the Knitting Workshop book.The body is done in one piece: using two circular needles and Judy’s Magic Cast On, cast on left front sts, PM, cast on 1, PM, cast on back sts, PM, cast on 1, PM, cast on right front sts. The single stitch between markers will be knit in reverse stockinette to make that the pretend side seam. Continue knitting on your main body needle only. Leave the second circular with it’s live sts dangling for now. Work 14 rows. Fold your strip with WS touching and take your dangling circular and align it with your working circular. Now you will do a 3-needle bind-off without the binding-off part to join the two pieces (basically, knit one st from front needle an done st from back needle). You’ve done your hem.
Knit as directed in pattern, including all waist shaping until you get to the armhole decreases. At this point, knit to X sts AFTER first side seam stitch, where X represents the # of sts you were to have decreased for the armhole on the back. Take the X number of armhole sts from the front, the single “seam” stitch and the X number of armhole sts from the back and put them all on a holder. Smack in the middle of all of these sts be sure to include the single side seam stitch. Continue knitting to the other side and repeat. Set aside.
Knit your sleeves in the round from the bottom up including all shaping until you get to where you would decrease for the armhole. I knit the first 4 rounds in garter stitch. Follow the same instructions as body for placing X sts for the sleeve underarm on a holder. This number should be the same number as those at the underarm on the body.
Next, join all of your pieces onto one long circular as follows: knit right front sts, PM, knit sts from one sleeve, PM, knit back sts, PM, knit sts from second sleeve, PM, knit left front sts. You will then do the set-in sleeve decreases at the markers as shown in the EZ book, except don’t increase the rate of decreases to every row once you have half of the sleeve sts. I continued with 1 decrease every RS row. Also, all of my decreases were done as p2tog or p2tog-tbl on the RS and k2tog or ssk on the WS so that you create a fake seam along the armhole.
A few short rows done on top edge of back.
Picked up 3 sts for every 4 slipped sts along front edges, 1 sts for every stitch along neckline. I only did 11 buttonholes for this Tempest. With my first Tempest, I feel 14 buttons is too much. But as I said above, I’m not sure if I’m going to sew on the buttons because I like it with my dragonfly pin from Nicholas and Felice (they have some nice new things on there too…hmmmm).
All in all, VERY pleased with this new one.